By Matthew Gavin Frank
A richly illustrated culinary travel of the USA via fifty signature dishes, and an intensive exploration of our gastronomic heritage.
Following his severely acclaimed getting ready the Ghost, popular essayist Matthew Gavin Frank takes on America’s nutrition. In a shocking type equivalent to Maggie Nelson or Mark Doty, Frank examines a indispensable dish in each one nation, interweaving the culinary with own and cultural institutions of every sector. From key lime pie (Florida) to elk stew (Montana), The Mad banquet commemorates the unforeseen origins of the general. openly dissecting the myriad intersections among background and foodstuff, Frank, during this gorgeously designed quantity, considers politics, sexuality, violence, grief, and delight: the cool, creamy whoopie pie inspires longevity within the face of latest England winters, whereas the stewlike perloo serves up an exploration of nutrition and race within the South. Tracing an unpredictable map of our collective appetites, The Mad ceremonial dinner provides a beguiling style profile of the yankee spirit.
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Additional resources for The Mad Feast: An Ecstatic Tour Through America’s Food
Example text
I’m working with Cuisine Solutions, which specializes in sous-vide products, in which the food is vacuum sealed in airtight plastic. After being slow-cooked at precise temperatures in a water bath, the toughest but most flavorful cuts, such as beef shank, become fork-tender. I remove the heavy cartilage that joins the two sides of a hanger steak and reattach them with Activa [a meat binder developed by the Japanese company Ajinomoto that acts like glue]. 5 cm]-thick steaks—delicious! WHAT ARE SOME OF YOUR OTHER FAMOUS MEAT INNOVATIONS?
Demand for Dutch milk-fed veal developed in Europe and the method eventually spread to the United States. Farmers moved calves indoors and started confining them in individual crates to save time and space. A strong animal welfare movement grew in the 1980s with the release of photographs of veal calves tethered in crates where they could barely move and sales plummeted. Farmers responded by improving conditions, phasing out or eliminating the use of crates, and raising veal calves without preventative antibiotics or growth hormones.
Its long and prominent grain runs on an angle in a V shape on either side of the tough, elastic membrane that joins its two sides, one larger than the other. The juicy but lean hanger steak is ideal for grilling and pan-searing and best served à point, French for medium rare. Because it is an internal organ, the hanging tender spoils easily. Other names include solomillo de pulmon (Spain), lombatello (Italy), and entraña gruesa or thick skirt (Argentina, Uruguay, Paraguay). The hanging tender is also available as a kosher cut.